Al Faisals, for so long a stalwart of the balti scene and allegedly the inventors of the Karak (family) Naan, have had the sort of facelift that would make even Anne Robinson envious.

With tinted glass windows, giant cinematic TV screen and sheesha pipes, it is obviously a favourite with the locals on a night out, partly, I suspect due to its glitzy feel. Even the menu is a bit Shirley Bassey and it includes bottles of Bateel which is a sparkling date juice drink uncorked for that ‘champagne’ moment for abstainers from the demon drink.

As might be expected prices are a bit higher but, in fairness, only fractionally so. We started with Chicken and Lamb ‘Botis’ but I’m pleased to say that the chargrilled pieces were from the breast. The portions were generous, subtly spiced and all round it was an excellent start accompanied by a well stocked chutney tray.

Next up were the main courses – she went for a Chicken Korma which again was of a very high standard – creamy without being cloying and mild without being bland. My Ginger Chicken Tak Tak Talwa (try saying that quickly even if you’ve only drunk date champagne) was a lot drier but its combination of minced chicken and ginger was tasty without reaching the heights of the Korma. The accompanying Garlic and Coriander naan was faultless.

Now, if I don my balti anorak for a moment, Al Faisal is definitely not a balti restaurant and doesn’t serve up a proper balti. However that doesn’t mean it’s not an excellent restaurant…it certainly cares about its food and is a definite culinary asset to the Balti Triangle.

ANDY MUNRO