Kushi would be a small but unassuming restaurant if it wasn’t for the banners proudly explaining its Bangladeshi authenticity. As I drove into their rear carpark I noticed one that said ‘Tested by Scientists’… what next … genetically modified baltis?

The décor was basic but smart with the obligatory (for most Bangladeshi Restaurants) fish tank. Also on the walls was a veritable Tate Gallery display of impressive certificates ranging from Master Chef to the Curry Club. Although I do think that the one for Fire Fighting Equipment was taking it a bit too far.

The sevice throughout was exemplary and we were soon brought paid for poppadoms and an array of free chutnies and dips. For starters we had the Chicken Tikka Pakora and the Onion Bhaji … perhaps lured by the fact that Kushi apparently holds the world record for making the biggest ever Onion Bhaji. Now ours was not the biggest but my wife swears that it was the tastiest she hes ever eaten. The batter was sublimely spiced and beautifully light.

Her main course was a Chicken Passanda which was thick and creamy without being anaemic. My Fillet of Lamb Kushi Special was finely sliced and tender lamb in a rich sauce but despite the menu description about the long cooking time the lamb seemed to be separate to the sauce rather than being imbrued by its flavours. It was still perfectly enjoyable though and well mopped up with a stuffed naan. This was full of vegetables and although the outside was dry it was in fact moist and perfectly cooked inside.

ANDY MUNRO