There are few Bangladeshi restaurants in the Balti Triangle but Grameen Khana (which apparently means Rustic Meal) sets great store by its authenticity. My initial impression was that it was definitely on the smart side with a tantalising water feature … tantalising because it took some time for the water jugs to materialise on our table. Whilst I was waiting, I counted over 200 dishes which would have made most top chefs – whose motto is usually less is more – turn in their tureen.

We started with the usual poppadoms which came with a nice tray of dips and chutnies which I didn’t order but for which I was disappointingly charged an extra £1.50p. My partner had the Chicken Tikka which she described as tender and tasty whilst my spicy Garlic and Mushroom starter was excellent. Both starters came on a plate that would have done justice to Master Chef – white and wavy with little ‘tray ‘ partitions for the dips.

Choosing a main course was difficult and for fish afishionados there was a wide selection including Sardine Bhuna, although thankfully no Pilchard Pasanda. A Chicken Dhansak was ordered and arrived as a very healthy portion and excellent consistency and taste … thick without being cloying ... although it’s a shame that the Man from DelMonte was involved when a slice of fresh pineapple would have made a nice change.

I had the rather unfortunately named Lamb Shatkora but it was extremely tasty (with no after affects!) and the shatkora was, in fact, a tasty lemony vegetable which the waiter helpfully advised me to mash up to infuse the flavours.The accompanying Peshwari Naan was honeyed and coconutty and one of the best that I have tasted. The bill followed with obligatory After Eights and after an excellent meal the only nasty taste in my mouth was having my pockets dipped for the dips.

ANDY MUNRO